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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.